by Paula Wilson
On 3 December 1910 a woman stood by herself looking out from the snow-covered top of Mount Cook. Freda Du Faur felt “…very little,” and “…very alone,” after climbing to the summit of New Zealand’s highest mountain.
Emmeline Freda Du Faur was born 16 September 1882 in Sydney Australia, but lived and grew up 25 kilometres north near the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. Much of her youth was spent exploring the diverse terrain of the park, ranging from wetlands to sand stone cliffs, a perfect introduction to the world of rock climbing.
Upon completing her education at Sydney Church of England Grammar School for Girls Freda started training as a nurse. This did not work out and there is some suggestion that she was suffering from bi polar disorder.
Freda spent the next few years traveling and in 1906 made her first visit to New Zealand’s South Island to gaze upon Mount Cook. Photos of the mountain, whose Maori name is Aoraki, inspired her to go and see it for herself. She stayed at the Hermitage Lodge with its views of snow-covered peaks.
On her second visit to Hermitage in 1908 she met local guide Peter Graham. Under his influence and guidance she progressed from youthful rock climbing to full fledged mountain climbing. By this time she had already decided that she was going to climb all of the major peaks of the Southern Alps of the South Island.
It was unusual for a woman to aspire to be a mountain climber, but Freda was not deterred. With Peter Graham’s help she worked on her mountaineering skills and on 19 December 1909 conquered Mount Sealy.
Overcoming the ideals of the period were almost as difficult as climbing the mountain. Dress was one problem, but Freda overcame this by wearing a long skirt and boots. Despite experienced male climbers feeling her attire was not conducive to scaling mountains this became her dress code from then on.
Problem two was that of a woman spending nights on a mountain with a man. The fuss caused by this led to Freda agreeing to a chaperon. When one was found they headed up the mountain only to see the chaperon getting into some difficulties and having to be rescued by Freda. Despite these obstacles she reached the summit and the first major Southern peak was deleted from her list.
During this climbing season Freda made a number of other climbs that included Malte Brun which was almost as difficult to get to as to climb. There was also an unsuccessful attempt on Mount Cook.
In preparation for the next climbing season Freda trained at the Dupain Institute of Physical Education under Muriel Cadogan for three months. Muriel was to become her constant companion, a relationship that later caused quite a stir in this conservative era.
December 1910 Freda was ready to ascend Mount Cook. She had done all of the preparation, but was it enough? Six hours later she left her party and climbed to the summit alone. Over 3700 metres up and looking out upon the world Freda Du Faur took her place in history.
Two years later she climbed all three peaks of Mount Cook with Peter Graham still at her side.
Freda only climbed for four seasons but set a standard that others could only follow. Not only did she triumph on Mount Cook but was the first to climb Mount Dampier, the second Mount Tasman. She also succeeded in her quest to climb the major peaks of the Southern Alps.
She had great plans to climb other regions around the world including Canada, the Himalayas and the Alps. With Muriel she travelled to England in preparation, but World War 1 intervened. All her plans were set aside and Freda never climbed again.
Freda wrote her book The Conquest of Mount Cook while in London and it was published in 1915. In 1929 Muriel had a breakdown and her family came to take her home leaving Freda alone in England. Unfortunately, Muriel never reached Australia, dying at sea.
Freda returned to Sydney where she spent her time traipsing the nearby bushland. On 11 September 1935 Freda took her own life and was buried in an unmarked grave at Manly. It was not until 2006 that a proper headstone was erected commemorating her achievements.
Freda Du Faur was Australia’s first true mountaineer, male or female, although she is better known in New Zealand where Du Faur Peak is named after her.
© Paula Wilson 2009
This entry was posted by pwilson on Tuesday, September 1st, 2009 at 12:00 am and is filed under Yesterday's Women.
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